Kohima

Kohima, the capital of Nagaland, spreads across a series of ridges at around 1,400–1,500 m in the Angami Naga heartland. It is the natural base for exploring the state, with the Hornbill Festival venue at Kisama, the villages of Khonoma and Jakhama, and the Dzukou Valley trailheads all within an hour or so.

The town is best known for the Battle of Kohima in 1944, one of the turning points of World War II in Asia, commemorated at the beautifully kept Kohima War Cemetery. Beyond the war history, Kohima has several good places to understand Naga culture: the Nagaland State Museum displays costumes, ornaments, weapons and a model of a morung; the Mary Help of Christians Cathedral, built with traditional Naga architectural motifs, is one of the largest churches in the Northeast; and the old Kohima Village (Bara Basti), one of the largest villages in Asia, retains carved gates and traditional houses.

Kohima's markets sell Naga shawls, handicrafts and local produce — the Keeda market is famous for its edible insects and smoked meat. Evenings are cool and quiet, so plan to eat early.